Renovations always alert historians to interesting possibilities. During cathedral works in Dublin, old tools and weapons were found, reproduced in bonze and brass and laid back into the new pavements. Trades people, like the barber with comb and scissors, marked the dressed stone slab at their thresholds with symbols of their crafts.
Women, some facts, some fictions: The very real chemist Rosalind Franklin whose work was at the forefront of understanding the molecular structures of DNA, RNA, viruses, coal, and graphite, is memorialized in this beautiful Trinity College library, home to the Book of Kells. The very fictitious Molly Mallone, yet an avatar of hard working women, sang her sales of cockles and muscles in streets broad and narrow. And has a permanent place in Irish hearts. The falling, or already fallen angel is rather disturbing. And dear Carla, visiting her ancestors homeland, is framed by the historic harp, maybe owned by the King Brian Boru, and possibly used to rouse the troops into the King’s battles. This harp is the original symbol of Ireland’s coat of arms, and famously, Guinness!
A final tour with The Sea Gardener
Marie Power was our guide to foraging the salty sea vegetables on the rocky Irish east coast, and to understanding the positive power of seaweed in our diets. Sea veggies, so nutrient rich, with more calcium than milk and more protein than beef, even dried, seaweed is a tasty addition to recipes. But, oh! to hunt and gather . . . We had to wait for the tide to go out a bit to get the best varieties. So walk slowly we did, head bent, back bent, marveling at the unique designs millions of years created on each smooth stone at our feet, filling our pockets with a little treasure.
All five senses on high alert
Marie begins her book, The Sea Garden, with a poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow “my soul is full of longing for the secret of the sea, and the heart of the great ocean sends a thrilling pulse through me.” The salty scent, white crest of waves building then collapsing where the ocean meets the stoney shore, the pull of the tide revealing larger and larger stones, with greener and fuller seaweed anchored fast, it all made a thrilling pulse through me, too.
Her tools and the rules are simple. Scissors, to cut the leafy frond, taking just what is needed, being careful not to dislodge it from the rock. A plastic baggie to carry it home. Never go alone, don’t turn your back to the sea, know the shore.
Maria has found ways to incorporate seaweed from the Irish coast into savories and sweets, breads and salads. She surprised us with a long table spread fully for lunch, all creations with the flavors of the sea, set up with the musical backdrop of the crashing waves, the last morsel followed by a brief but blustery wind and spritz of rain . . . a perfect Irish day.
Our sublime finale with KOOKS
After 26 years and 2 Michelin stars creating their Thornton’s Restaurant in Dublin, celebrated chef Kevin Thornton and partner Muriel embarked on their new food adventure, KOOKS, creating and offering extraordinary culinary experiences. Because of their friendship with Bill and Christina, we were invited into their home, invited to sit at the Kooks counter watching the wizardry of this renowned chef prepare a 5 course dinner for the 12 of us.
It was epic! It was fun! This was an evening of installation art, the chef’s philosophy and methods revealed like a ballad in the traditional French way, poetry put to dance. Kevin kept moving, kept up with himself, moved with the grace of a dancer and spoke with passion, irreverence, and joy. Never missing a beat of what his plan called for next.
Kevin and Muriel work as a team, seamlessly. Proxissimo.
We all were at the counter as Kevin explained what delights he would be preparing, all the while magically getting the first course ready.
Low white bowls were all laid out on the counter. His “paints”, tarted up with lemon, and soft brushes were ready. Tiny blossoms, tiniest nasturtium leaves, and gold all for the abstract brush strokes of fish with their edible details just below the rim… Then, inviting us to the table . . .
This is barely a glimpse. It was a rare and delicious evening impossible for me to describe. All 5 senses were once again engaged, and in addition the soul was nurtured in this warm, creative atmosphere.
Passages 